GL Golf Tips/Strategies
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Hi Lee,
I would add just one comment to Jack's reply. If you are in the "Normal" level of difficulty, when you hold the shift key down, it shows the approximate path of the shot, including the height of the trajectory. As you increase the "punch" using the "e" key you will see the trajectory is lowered. If the trajectory is below the branches you are trying to avoid it usually means that you won't hit them.
The same applies when you are increasing loft to go over a tree using the "q" key.
You can also see what effect changing the club has on the trajectory.
As Jack said - practice, If you want a more realistic way to practice than the driving range, use the practice mode on the course you want to play.
Good luck.
I would add just one comment to Jack's reply. If you are in the "Normal" level of difficulty, when you hold the shift key down, it shows the approximate path of the shot, including the height of the trajectory. As you increase the "punch" using the "e" key you will see the trajectory is lowered. If the trajectory is below the branches you are trying to avoid it usually means that you won't hit them.
The same applies when you are increasing loft to go over a tree using the "q" key.
You can also see what effect changing the club has on the trajectory.
As Jack said - practice, If you want a more realistic way to practice than the driving range, use the practice mode on the course you want to play.
Good luck.
--d@ve
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
I have been playing GL Golf for over a year and I have never scored as well as some of these players. Hopefully they will be able to take a little time and help us poor saps out. Or are you afraid of a little competition.
eddie
eddie
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Eddie,
I've shot a few low scores and I welcome the competition. In fact I've posted how I play a few of the courses, although I haven't updated them since I posted them. I may have made a few improvements.
I use the DR (330 yards) driver and I carry a 1-iron instead of the SW . I use the PW for green-side bunkers.
Here's how I approached the new TPC Sawgrass course. In practice mode I look at the overhead view [the "b" key] to get a feel for the entire hole. I play the hole using as many mulligans as I need to roughly determine what clubs to hit, where to aim, and which adjustments [draw, fade, loft punch, backspin] work best. Still in practice mode I play it several more times to verify or refine these variables, and get a feel for how putts break. I write down what works. These are my notes for TPC Sawgrass.
driver to fairway; 2nd +10 yards s3, aim @ pin: most putts are straight.
"to fairway" means aiming with the overhead view [for aiming from ground level use the "shift" key]
"+10 yards" means if the program suggest a 5-iron, use a 4-iron.
These notes assume no wind. In general 1 level of draw compensates for a 4 mph wind from left to right and a 6 mph headwind adds 10 yards to the shot.
If you use these parameters and strike the ball well, you should have a reasonable chance to make birdie, and if extremely lucky, eagle.
The programmers are devious. On some holes there are "secret" ways to play the hole for a better score. For example, take Rattlesnake #12. I play it like this:
When you first arrive at the tee, there is a club and direction suggested. Using that as a starting point, I aim slightly right, switch from a 5-iron to a 3-iron, add 2 degrees of loft, and 5 degrees of backspin. If I strike the ball well, I have a putt for eagle. All of this assumes no wind. How did I determine these parameters? I experimented in practice mode with different parameters until I was satisfied with the results.
My final advice is: practice, practice, practice. The driving range is very useful for seeing how the wind affects the shot and for striking a sweet shot consistently.
Let me know if his posting was helpful, and good luck.
--d@ve
I've shot a few low scores and I welcome the competition. In fact I've posted how I play a few of the courses, although I haven't updated them since I posted them. I may have made a few improvements.
I use the DR (330 yards) driver and I carry a 1-iron instead of the SW . I use the PW for green-side bunkers.
Here's how I approached the new TPC Sawgrass course. In practice mode I look at the overhead view [the "b" key] to get a feel for the entire hole. I play the hole using as many mulligans as I need to roughly determine what clubs to hit, where to aim, and which adjustments [draw, fade, loft punch, backspin] work best. Still in practice mode I play it several more times to verify or refine these variables, and get a feel for how putts break. I write down what works. These are my notes for TPC Sawgrass.
driver to fairway; 2nd +10 yards s3, aim @ pin: most putts are straight.
"to fairway" means aiming with the overhead view [for aiming from ground level use the "shift" key]
"+10 yards" means if the program suggest a 5-iron, use a 4-iron.
These notes assume no wind. In general 1 level of draw compensates for a 4 mph wind from left to right and a 6 mph headwind adds 10 yards to the shot.
If you use these parameters and strike the ball well, you should have a reasonable chance to make birdie, and if extremely lucky, eagle.
The programmers are devious. On some holes there are "secret" ways to play the hole for a better score. For example, take Rattlesnake #12. I play it like this:
When you first arrive at the tee, there is a club and direction suggested. Using that as a starting point, I aim slightly right, switch from a 5-iron to a 3-iron, add 2 degrees of loft, and 5 degrees of backspin. If I strike the ball well, I have a putt for eagle. All of this assumes no wind. How did I determine these parameters? I experimented in practice mode with different parameters until I was satisfied with the results.
My final advice is: practice, practice, practice. The driving range is very useful for seeing how the wind affects the shot and for striking a sweet shot consistently.
Let me know if his posting was helpful, and good luck.
--d@ve
Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Wow, great tip on Rattlesnake! I tried a few times and was right next to the pin. I knew it was possible, but I've never practiced enough to get these shots perfected. Good idea writing down notes too, I always forget my strategies for a course a few days after a tournament is over.
Is the 330 yard driver useful on TPC? My first round I shot an error free -19 with the 315 yard driver and didn't use the mulligan. The second round I shot a -18 with two errors, so I needed the mulligan to fix one of them.
Is the 330 yard driver useful on TPC? My first round I shot an error free -19 with the 315 yard driver and didn't use the mulligan. The second round I shot a -18 with two errors, so I needed the mulligan to fix one of them.
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
I guess a 330 driver is not necessary. The only hole where it is truly useful is #11, especially into a strong headwind. The 330 driver gives you a better chance of putting for an eagle.
Question on # 5. Most of the time I have found it to be an unreachable par 4, but once or twice it was like it was a different hole and could be reached with an iron. Am I hallucinating or does this really happen?
Question on # 5. Most of the time I have found it to be an unreachable par 4, but once or twice it was like it was a different hole and could be reached with an iron. Am I hallucinating or does this really happen?
--d@ve
Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
The par 5's are definitely tricky on that course, I can only count on an eagle on the first of them.
Oh no, you must still be using the beta version! That had the issue where hole #5 was WAY longer than it was supposed to be. Download [deleted] right away just to make sure you have the right version. Did that end up making you par the hole on any of the rounds?
I'm going to get rid of my sand wedge now, it would be nice to have one less 20 yard gap in my club selection, especially on this course where all the par 4's are long.
Oh no, you must still be using the beta version! That had the issue where hole #5 was WAY longer than it was supposed to be. Download [deleted] right away just to make sure you have the right version. Did that end up making you par the hole on any of the rounds?
I'm going to get rid of my sand wedge now, it would be nice to have one less 20 yard gap in my club selection, especially on this course where all the par 4's are long.
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Thanks for the tip on the Beta version; I'll get to play my last round with the correct version. That should give me 1 or, with luck, 2 strokes less.
--d@ve
Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
I'd consider dropping one stroke from each of your first three rounds if you want, it's definitely not fair that it took you an extra shot to make it to the green on that "par 4". Let me know if you'd like me to, or if anyone else has an objection just mention it.pb2au wrote:Thanks for the tip on the Beta version; I'll get to play my last round with the correct version. That should give me 1 or, with luck, 2 strokes less.
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
That is a very generous offer, but one I will have to decline. If the program malfunctions, that's one thing, but this was solely due to my inattention. Let's just say I called a penalty stroke on myself in each of the first three rounds.
By the way in my third round the tree that guards the corner on #10 wasn't there. That is until I tried to hit through it. I believe in the past I had said that I experienced that phenomenon only after saving and resuming a game. Not this time; I didn't save the game during that entire round.
By the way in my third round the tree that guards the corner on #10 wasn't there. That is until I tried to hit through it. I believe in the past I had said that I experienced that phenomenon only after saving and resuming a game. Not this time; I didn't save the game during that entire round.
--d@ve
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Some holes have a "secret" way to play them. All tips assume NO WIND. Caveat Emptor: My name is NOT at the top of most best round lists.
Breaker's Coast # 8
1W driver (300y) 2 levels of punch, aim left of tree straight ahead. DR driver (330y) is the same except use 90% of full strength. The DR2 driver (315y) is too tricky to recommend.
Rattlesnake #12
From the initial conditions aim slightly right, switch from a 5-iron to a 3-iron, add 2 levels of loft, and 5 levels of backspin.
Morrowsfield #3
DR driver (330y), don't adjust aim, 2 levels of draw.
Morrowsfield #6
5-wood, aim at 1st tree to the right of the initial direction, 2 levels of draw, 1 level of backspin
Morrowsfield #12
DR driver (330y), aim slightly left between 1st 2 tree tops; 2nd shot PW, 5 levels of punch.
Morrowsfield #14
PW, aim slightly right at the "V" made by the branches, 1 level of draw, 5 levels of backspin
Morrowsfield #15
5-iron, aim left of the 3rd tree trunk to the right, 1 level of draw (putt for double eagle)
Morrowsfield #17
DR driver (330y), if no headwind, aim at the center of the 2 trees straight ahead, with headwind aim under tree on right.
Isle West #5
1W driver (300y), aim at pin, 4 levels of punch
Winding Meadows #2
8-iron, aim at right side of at the "V" made by the branches to the right, 3 levels of draw, 1 level of backspin
Winding Meadows #15
3-wood, aim at pin, 4 levels of punch, 1 level of backspin
Snowflake Ridge #6, #7, #8
See earlier post
Ravenswood #3
DR driver (330y), aim slightly right & hit into the left side of the tallest tree. You'll have to experiment to fine tune aim.
Ravenswood #4
DR driver (330y) On the tee the handle of the club is pointing at a tree with a thick purple trunk. Turn left & aim down the gap to its right. A 9-iron will give you an eagle putt.
Badger Pass #2
5-wood, aim at center of bush on left, 5 levels of loft, 1 level of backspin
Badger Pass #11
5 or 6-iron, turn left & aim between the bush & the tree trunk, 5 levels of fade
Badger Pass #13
5-wood, aim right of mound straight ahead, 5 levels of punch, 1 level of draw
Breaker's Coast # 8
1W driver (300y) 2 levels of punch, aim left of tree straight ahead. DR driver (330y) is the same except use 90% of full strength. The DR2 driver (315y) is too tricky to recommend.
Rattlesnake #12
From the initial conditions aim slightly right, switch from a 5-iron to a 3-iron, add 2 levels of loft, and 5 levels of backspin.
Morrowsfield #3
DR driver (330y), don't adjust aim, 2 levels of draw.
Morrowsfield #6
5-wood, aim at 1st tree to the right of the initial direction, 2 levels of draw, 1 level of backspin
Morrowsfield #12
DR driver (330y), aim slightly left between 1st 2 tree tops; 2nd shot PW, 5 levels of punch.
Morrowsfield #14
PW, aim slightly right at the "V" made by the branches, 1 level of draw, 5 levels of backspin
Morrowsfield #15
5-iron, aim left of the 3rd tree trunk to the right, 1 level of draw (putt for double eagle)
Morrowsfield #17
DR driver (330y), if no headwind, aim at the center of the 2 trees straight ahead, with headwind aim under tree on right.
Isle West #5
1W driver (300y), aim at pin, 4 levels of punch
Winding Meadows #2
8-iron, aim at right side of at the "V" made by the branches to the right, 3 levels of draw, 1 level of backspin
Winding Meadows #15
3-wood, aim at pin, 4 levels of punch, 1 level of backspin
Snowflake Ridge #6, #7, #8
See earlier post
Ravenswood #3
DR driver (330y), aim slightly right & hit into the left side of the tallest tree. You'll have to experiment to fine tune aim.
Ravenswood #4
DR driver (330y) On the tee the handle of the club is pointing at a tree with a thick purple trunk. Turn left & aim down the gap to its right. A 9-iron will give you an eagle putt.
Badger Pass #2
5-wood, aim at center of bush on left, 5 levels of loft, 1 level of backspin
Badger Pass #11
5 or 6-iron, turn left & aim between the bush & the tree trunk, 5 levels of fade
Badger Pass #13
5-wood, aim right of mound straight ahead, 5 levels of punch, 1 level of draw
--d@ve
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Thanks D@ve for all of the tips on the different courses. It was fun trying them, especially #12 on Rattlesnake. It worked great.
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to practice the 2nd, 3rd and 4th rounds of a tournament before I play the tournament, to get a better idea where the holes are located and the tee boxes.
Karen
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to practice the 2nd, 3rd and 4th rounds of a tournament before I play the tournament, to get a better idea where the holes are located and the tee boxes.
Karen
Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Yeah, Thanks D@ve, I'll try a few more of those here in a bitkjb723369051 wrote:Thanks D@ve for all of the tips on the different courses. It was fun trying them, especially #12 on Rattlesnake. It worked great.
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to practice the 2nd, 3rd and 4th rounds of a tournament before I play the tournament, to get a better idea where the holes are located and the tee boxes.
Karen
In the main menu there is an option, right under where the course description is displayed, for Tees and Hole Locations. Select the course, then you should be able to pick Blue tees and Alternate 1 hole locations.
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Thanks Jake for answering my question on the location of the Tee's and hole's in tournament mode. That was easy____they were in plain, but for some reason I didn't pay any attention to them.
Karen
Karen
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Re:Tips/Strategies for Rattlesnake
I posted edited tips for Rattlesnake on 2/10/11, but I didn't realize that no notifications were sent when an edit is posted.
If you are interested in them, please see my earlier post "Rattlesnake Tips," on page 1.
If you are interested in them, please see my earlier post "Rattlesnake Tips," on page 1.
--d@ve
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Snowflake Ridge Tips/Strategies
Here are some strategies I use on Snowflake Ridge.
(Two options are indicated by "1)" & "2)" Adjustments: s3 means 3 levels of backspin, a2 means 2 levels of draw, etc. Default means all conditions when you first step onto the tee. "0" means use the suggested club; "+1" means go up in length 1 club, etc. "+10" means you need a club that gives 10 more yards than the indicated distance. All of these settings assume no wind.)
In my bag: 1W (300 yard) driver, 3w, 5w, 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9-irons, PW, PT
1 & 10 1) If tailwind or no wind, driver, aim @ R side of fairway on R; 2nd, land ball just short of pin s1 (use x key);
2) if headwind, 3-iron s2, lay up in small fairway to L, aim R of small bushes, 2nd +1 s5, aim R of pin
2 & 11 9-iron s2, aim L of pin
3 & 12 Eagle chance: 3-wood a1, aim@ R side of gap
4 & 13 3-iron d1 s3
5 & 14 driver a2, aim R of mound; 2nd land ball on top of pin s3
6 & 15 1) Eagle chance (preferred): driver e1, aim @ hole (see earlier post); 2nd if no trees hit, +1 s2 (If you hit a tree, you can often punch onto green)
2) safe: 5 wood, swing L, aim for 1st tree L of cliff; 2nd driver d5 aim at R side of cliff; 3rd +1
7 & 16 1) driver q4, go a little L from default & aim @ center of bush; 2nd land ball short of green; 3rd normal wedge play (If ball bounces off cliff and falls to base of cliff, 2nd play backwards thru gap into snow with PW; 3rd possibly 7-iron to fairway on R; 4th driver q3 @ R half of green)
2) 3-iron s1, aim R of cliff @ fairway; 2nd driver q3, aim @ near end of green
8 & 17 1) 8 iron d1 s5, aim at 1st tree trunk L of pin
2) 3-iron, aim just L of tree top to R
9 & 18 3 iron, aim @ small bush between trees; 2nd -1 s3, aim at small fairway to L; 3rd land ball @ pin s1
If you find something that works better, please post.
Good Luck
(Two options are indicated by "1)" & "2)" Adjustments: s3 means 3 levels of backspin, a2 means 2 levels of draw, etc. Default means all conditions when you first step onto the tee. "0" means use the suggested club; "+1" means go up in length 1 club, etc. "+10" means you need a club that gives 10 more yards than the indicated distance. All of these settings assume no wind.)
In my bag: 1W (300 yard) driver, 3w, 5w, 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9-irons, PW, PT
1 & 10 1) If tailwind or no wind, driver, aim @ R side of fairway on R; 2nd, land ball just short of pin s1 (use x key);
2) if headwind, 3-iron s2, lay up in small fairway to L, aim R of small bushes, 2nd +1 s5, aim R of pin
2 & 11 9-iron s2, aim L of pin
3 & 12 Eagle chance: 3-wood a1, aim@ R side of gap
4 & 13 3-iron d1 s3
5 & 14 driver a2, aim R of mound; 2nd land ball on top of pin s3
6 & 15 1) Eagle chance (preferred): driver e1, aim @ hole (see earlier post); 2nd if no trees hit, +1 s2 (If you hit a tree, you can often punch onto green)
2) safe: 5 wood, swing L, aim for 1st tree L of cliff; 2nd driver d5 aim at R side of cliff; 3rd +1
7 & 16 1) driver q4, go a little L from default & aim @ center of bush; 2nd land ball short of green; 3rd normal wedge play (If ball bounces off cliff and falls to base of cliff, 2nd play backwards thru gap into snow with PW; 3rd possibly 7-iron to fairway on R; 4th driver q3 @ R half of green)
2) 3-iron s1, aim R of cliff @ fairway; 2nd driver q3, aim @ near end of green
8 & 17 1) 8 iron d1 s5, aim at 1st tree trunk L of pin
2) 3-iron, aim just L of tree top to R
9 & 18 3 iron, aim @ small bush between trees; 2nd -1 s3, aim at small fairway to L; 3rd land ball @ pin s1
If you find something that works better, please post.
Good Luck
--d@ve
Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Hi there,
Golf GL, as we all know is the best Golf game for Mac there is - but I would appreciate a little help and advice!
Would anyone know of a good strategy for playing the Par 4 7th hole of Snowflake Ridge (9 Hole)? Try as I might, I can only bogie this hole and at best I can only make a par .... (very rare!)
Am I alone, or are there other 'golfers' out there with the same problem?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Best
John.
PS: I have just read in more detail the post of pb2au above mine and found the solution!
Apologies for my mistake in not reading the 'small print!' But thank you again pb2au!
Golf GL, as we all know is the best Golf game for Mac there is - but I would appreciate a little help and advice!
Would anyone know of a good strategy for playing the Par 4 7th hole of Snowflake Ridge (9 Hole)? Try as I might, I can only bogie this hole and at best I can only make a par .... (very rare!)
Am I alone, or are there other 'golfers' out there with the same problem?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Best
John.
PS: I have just read in more detail the post of pb2au above mine and found the solution!
Apologies for my mistake in not reading the 'small print!' But thank you again pb2au!
Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
I remember that hole being very difficult, d@ve's tip on that hole is very useful!
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
I've often marveled at the low scores guys like d@ve are posting. Like on San Jacinto, e.g., some guys have posted scores that average under two strokes per hole. Inconceivable. So, in addition to practicing hitting the sweet spot consistently, I figured that these guys must be doing a whole lot of on-course practice, experimenting by looking for the secret little gaps in the trees, like some that d@ve has pointed out. Well, without doing all that, I happened to stumble on one that provides a consistent double-eagle on no. 10 at San Jacinto--an ace on a par 4. So, I guess those secret gaps are definitely out there to be found. But, good gosh, it must take hundreds of hours of such experimental practice to intentionally suss out each hole on even one course, doesn't it?
So I think maybe I'll pick just one course to do that on, and enjoy the other courses more casually. But, for tournament purposes, does it matter which course I select as the one to "master"? I mean, are there some courses that just will never be used for tournaments and others that will be used more often?
Oh, and is there a way to do on-course practice by going directly to a particular hole on a particular course? There probably is, I just haven't found it yet.
So I think maybe I'll pick just one course to do that on, and enjoy the other courses more casually. But, for tournament purposes, does it matter which course I select as the one to "master"? I mean, are there some courses that just will never be used for tournaments and others that will be used more often?
Oh, and is there a way to do on-course practice by going directly to a particular hole on a particular course? There probably is, I just haven't found it yet.
Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Jack Clark wrote:I've often marveled at the low scores guys like d@ve are posting. Like on San Jacinto, e.g., some guys have posted scores that average under two strokes per hole. Inconceivable. So, in addition to practicing hitting the sweet spot consistently, I figured that these guys must be doing a whole lot of on-course practice, experimenting by looking for the secret little gaps in the trees, like some that d@ve has pointed out. Well, without doing all that, I happened to stumble on one that provides a consistent double-eagle on no. 10 at San Jacinto--an ace on a par 4. So, I guess those secret gaps are definitely out there to be found. But, good gosh, it must take hundreds of hours of such experimental practice to intentionally suss out each hole on even one course, doesn't it?
So I think maybe I'll pick just one course to do that on, and enjoy the other courses more casually. But, for tournament purposes, does it matter which course I select as the one to "master"? I mean, are there some courses that just will never be used for tournaments and others that will be used more often?
Oh, and is there a way to do on-course practice by going directly to a particular hole on a particular course? There probably is, I just haven't found it yet.
Hi there Jack Clark,
Regarding the double-eagle on the 10th at San Jacinto which you 'stumbled across', perhaps you might share your good fortune and knowhow, I can only manage an eagle on that hole by hitting sideways with a 3 iron with 2 degrees of loft, 3 of draw and 5 of backspin in a gap between the trees. On the other hand, is it not against the rules of golf to hit sideways off the tee??
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Hi Jack, here is a list of the current tournaments. Each course will be played equally, I think I accidentally played one of the courses twice already.Jack Clark wrote:So I think maybe I'll pick just one course to do that on, and enjoy the other courses more casually. But, for tournament purposes, does it matter which course I select as the one to "master"? I mean, are there some courses that just will never be used for tournaments and others that will be used more often?
Oh, and is there a way to do on-course practice by going directly to a particular hole on a particular course? There probably is, I just haven't found it yet.
http://nuclearnova.com/games/glgolf/glgolftournament/
Yes you can, in the main menu press the Practice button, then skip around holes with the +-* keys
Nuclear Nova Software - Games and Apps for the Mac, iPhone, iPad, and iPod
GL Golf - Pinball Massacre - Barnyard Blaster - Rocket Golf - Liquid Defense - Hydrothermal
GL Golf - Pinball Massacre - Barnyard Blaster - Rocket Golf - Liquid Defense - Hydrothermal
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