GL Golf Tips/Strategies
GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Recently I have had several emails on how to obtain the incredible scores some of you golfers are getting. I personally have never gotten the low scores that are on the highscore list, so I'm opening this thread for golfers to share information on how to improve your game.
If anyone is bored and would like to post a few tips/strategies they found for GL Golf to share with other users, here is a place to do it. Alternately if anyone has any questions about a specific hole or course and how to improve your score on it post it here and maybe your fellow golfers can help.
Hopefully we can get a little community started here for GL Golf, because I know there are enough of you registered users out there to support one!
If anyone is bored and would like to post a few tips/strategies they found for GL Golf to share with other users, here is a place to do it. Alternately if anyone has any questions about a specific hole or course and how to improve your score on it post it here and maybe your fellow golfers can help.
Hopefully we can get a little community started here for GL Golf, because I know there are enough of you registered users out there to support one!
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Rattlesnake Hole 1
This thread has been open a long time with no replies, so let me get the ball rolling.
How do people play the first hole of Rattlesnake? I can't seem to get it - if I manage a birdie it's a huge chip in from distance.
The best I can do is take advantage of a big wind from the left off the tee (if I'm lucky enough to get one), take a long pitching wedge and hit maximum power, maximum fade. Even then I don't think I've ever managed to keep the ball on the green. Am I missing something?
How do people play the first hole of Rattlesnake? I can't seem to get it - if I manage a birdie it's a huge chip in from distance.
The best I can do is take advantage of a big wind from the left off the tee (if I'm lucky enough to get one), take a long pitching wedge and hit maximum power, maximum fade. Even then I don't think I've ever managed to keep the ball on the green. Am I missing something?
I haven't played this course in a while, but I just gave it a shot and I'm not sure its possible to land on the green. My best luck came from aiming to the right of the trees with maximum left spin, using a 9 iron. This could usually get me in the sand somewhat close to the hole, where I used a low iron to attempt a birdie. This is going to be harder in version 2.08 though, where I fixed a bug that shooting out of the sand wasn't making shots less accurate like it was suppose to.
A random tip I've found that might be useful is to use a 3-5 iron from the rough/sand for shots that are about 10-20 yards away. I've found its very hard to put a ball in the hole with a wedge, but sometimes I can use a low iron to run the ball into the flag pole, which usually drops in.
A random tip I've found that might be useful is to use a 3-5 iron from the rough/sand for shots that are about 10-20 yards away. I've found its very hard to put a ball in the hole with a wedge, but sometimes I can use a low iron to run the ball into the flag pole, which usually drops in.
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Hi Jake, good tip about taking short shots with a low iron rather than a wedge.
I'm glad to hear it's not just me who finds that hole impossible to hit green in regulation (ie. leaving two putts for par). Another similar hole for me is Rocky Grove hole 7 - the green is just too small to land on and stick.
I'm glad to hear it's not just me who finds that hole impossible to hit green in regulation (ie. leaving two putts for par). Another similar hole for me is Rocky Grove hole 7 - the green is just too small to land on and stick.
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Golf Clubs - which club for which shot?
I am not a golf player, though do enjoy GL Golf and have a basic understanding of the game. I could do with a bit more knowledge of the effect of different clubs, though.
E.g. if I find myself in amongst the trees and want to hit a shot that gets the ball through them at quite a low angle (instead of lobbing it high up into the trees again), which club should I choose?
Could anyone give me a nice short summary of club function, numbers related to them etc?
Thanks
Lee
I am not a golf player, though do enjoy GL Golf and have a basic understanding of the game. I could do with a bit more knowledge of the effect of different clubs, though.
E.g. if I find myself in amongst the trees and want to hit a shot that gets the ball through them at quite a low angle (instead of lobbing it high up into the trees again), which club should I choose?
Could anyone give me a nice short summary of club function, numbers related to them etc?
Thanks
Lee
I'm no expert in real life, but a google search of choosing golf club for situations returned a few results that looked interesting.
I haven't found any "secrets" for GL Golf, other than what the basics are. I try to use low height clubs for long shots, and lofty ones with some backspin for anything close. I pay carful attention to the vertical distance to the hole and adjust accordingly. For water hazards I normally try to use a longer club with some backspin, I would rather overshoot the hole than land in the water!
I haven't found any "secrets" for GL Golf, other than what the basics are. I try to use low height clubs for long shots, and lofty ones with some backspin for anything close. I pay carful attention to the vertical distance to the hole and adjust accordingly. For water hazards I normally try to use a longer club with some backspin, I would rather overshoot the hole than land in the water!
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practice
practice practice practice.
living within a mile of the Augusta National might help a little though.
living within a mile of the Augusta National might help a little though.
---Trey_III
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Rattlesnake Tips
Just in time for the tournament starting on 2/20/11, here are some of my strategies I use on Rattlesnake. (s3 means 3 levels of backspin, a2 means 2 levels of draw, etc. Default means all conditions when you first step onto the tee. "0" means use the suggested club; "+1" means go up in length 1 club, etc. "+10" means you need a club that gives 10 more yards than the indicated distance. All of these settings assume no wind.)
I use the 1W driver (300 yards); I see no advantage to using longer.
1 H-PW d2 s3, aim @ L tip of tree
2 driver q4 a3, aim @ R tip of last tree on R
3 driver aim for center of fairway; 2nd 0, if ball lands past pin, add q1, aim @ pin
4 driver aim for end of fairway; 2nd 0, if ball lands well on green, add q1
5 PW s1, 3/4 strength, aim @ pin
6 3-wood q2 a3, aim at red marker
7 driver L of pond; 2nd land ball on pin then add q1 s2, aim just R of pin
8 driver d4, aim @ blue marker; 2nd need about +10 yards s3 (If ball lands on pin, add q1 s1; if short, add q1), aim R of pin
9 3-wood end of fairway ; 2nd 0, if <120 yards, use PW <full strength
10 driver q4 (d1?), aim L of tree
11 driver, aim at red marker; 2nd, aim R of pin, land ball on pin then add q1 s2
12 3-iron q2 s5, aim slightly R of default
13 driver, aim just L of 1st tree on R; 2nd 0, if club = distance, if ball just lands on green, add s2
14 3-iron s3, aim L of pin
15 1-iron s2, aim @ pin
16 driver, aim @ L side of fairway; 2nd 0, if club = distance
17 driver d5, aim L of trees; land short of pin s1 (+3 s1?), aim L of pin
18 1-iron, to end of fairway; 3-wood to end of fairway (with tailwind it's possible to skip driver onto green); 3rd PW
If you find something that works better, please post.
Good Luck
I use the 1W driver (300 yards); I see no advantage to using longer.
1 H-PW d2 s3, aim @ L tip of tree
2 driver q4 a3, aim @ R tip of last tree on R
3 driver aim for center of fairway; 2nd 0, if ball lands past pin, add q1, aim @ pin
4 driver aim for end of fairway; 2nd 0, if ball lands well on green, add q1
5 PW s1, 3/4 strength, aim @ pin
6 3-wood q2 a3, aim at red marker
7 driver L of pond; 2nd land ball on pin then add q1 s2, aim just R of pin
8 driver d4, aim @ blue marker; 2nd need about +10 yards s3 (If ball lands on pin, add q1 s1; if short, add q1), aim R of pin
9 3-wood end of fairway ; 2nd 0, if <120 yards, use PW <full strength
10 driver q4 (d1?), aim L of tree
11 driver, aim at red marker; 2nd, aim R of pin, land ball on pin then add q1 s2
12 3-iron q2 s5, aim slightly R of default
13 driver, aim just L of 1st tree on R; 2nd 0, if club = distance, if ball just lands on green, add s2
14 3-iron s3, aim L of pin
15 1-iron s2, aim @ pin
16 driver, aim @ L side of fairway; 2nd 0, if club = distance
17 driver d5, aim L of trees; land short of pin s1 (+3 s1?), aim L of pin
18 1-iron, to end of fairway; 3-wood to end of fairway (with tailwind it's possible to skip driver onto green); 3rd PW
If you find something that works better, please post.
Good Luck
Last edited by pb2au on Thu Feb 10, 2011 11:27 am, edited 5 times in total.
--d@ve
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Tips for GL Classic
Here are some strategies I use on GL Classic. (s3 means 3 levels of backspin, a2 means 2 levels of draw, etc. Default means all conditions when you first step onto the tee. "0" means use the suggested club; "+1" means go up in length 1 club, etc. "+10" means you need a club that gives 10 more yards than the indicated distance. All of these settings assume no wind.)
I use the DR driver (330 yards)
Caveat Emptor - I'm not on the all time best scores lists
1 driver d1, aim L of blue marker; 2nd 0, aim just R of pin
2 1-iron, don't adjust aim; 2nd +5
3 driver, aim just L of red marker ; 2nd 0 (or normal chip)
4 driver s5, aim @ center island; 2nd 0
5 driver, aim @ Red marker; 2nd normal wedge play
6 3-wood q1 s5, aim @ pin
7 3 iron, aim L of pin
8 driver, aim @ farthest point of fairway, add s, if tailwind; 2nd +1 s3
9 driver a1, aim @ gap L of Red marker; 2nd normal wedge play
10 driver, aim at white; 2nd normal iron play
11 driver s1, don't aim between red marker & pin; 2nd slightly strong chip
12 driver, s3 don't adjust aim; 2nd +15 s3
13 driver, aim @ R edge of L fairway trap; 2nd normal wedge play, aim R of pin
14 driver q2 d5 s5, aim at L edge of island
15 driver a1 s1, adjust aim slightly R
16 driver, aim @ White (solid hit a must); 2nd land ball on top of pin s5
17 driver a1, aim @1st tree R of the water; 2nd 3-wood
18 driver, aim R in the rough as close to water as possible; 2nd +20
If you find something that works better, please post.
Good Luck
I use the DR driver (330 yards)
Caveat Emptor - I'm not on the all time best scores lists
1 driver d1, aim L of blue marker; 2nd 0, aim just R of pin
2 1-iron, don't adjust aim; 2nd +5
3 driver, aim just L of red marker ; 2nd 0 (or normal chip)
4 driver s5, aim @ center island; 2nd 0
5 driver, aim @ Red marker; 2nd normal wedge play
6 3-wood q1 s5, aim @ pin
7 3 iron, aim L of pin
8 driver, aim @ farthest point of fairway, add s, if tailwind; 2nd +1 s3
9 driver a1, aim @ gap L of Red marker; 2nd normal wedge play
10 driver, aim at white; 2nd normal iron play
11 driver s1, don't aim between red marker & pin; 2nd slightly strong chip
12 driver, s3 don't adjust aim; 2nd +15 s3
13 driver, aim @ R edge of L fairway trap; 2nd normal wedge play, aim R of pin
14 driver q2 d5 s5, aim at L edge of island
15 driver a1 s1, adjust aim slightly R
16 driver, aim @ White (solid hit a must); 2nd land ball on top of pin s5
17 driver a1, aim @1st tree R of the water; 2nd 3-wood
18 driver, aim R in the rough as close to water as possible; 2nd +20
If you find something that works better, please post.
Good Luck
Last edited by pb2au on Mon Feb 28, 2011 4:09 pm, edited 4 times in total.
--d@ve
Thanks for the long posts! I haven't played those courses as much lately (been playing for 6 years so I like to keep things fresh), but when I do I'm going to take a look at this thread and compare my strategies. I would love to see a video of someone getting a -26, maybe I'll request that on the next email update I send out!
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Here is an email I received from David with some great tips!
GL Golf hints
You can use wedges on the green. Many times a tough putt is a more straightforward chip over the bumps in the green. Also, on some of the bigger greens you often can't reach the hole with the putter anyway.
Hit putts firm to hard. You'll miss some long, but the higher % you make more than makes up for it.
I always use 4 or 5 backspin on an approach shot to the green (with rare exceptions). This gives you much more control.
1 level of draw or slice = 4-5 mph of wind at a right angle to your shot.
I don't use the "sand wedge". It doesn't go far enough to be useful. I use the 40-yd wedge for all sand shots around the green.
On some holes the best route to the green is not the fairway.
You can make it through between trees on some holes and shorten the hole, but it may require a pretty precise shot.
On holes that you're having trouble with, use the practice round function. You can play the same hole several times in a row to try out different strategies.
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
I don't think it is possible land on the green without wind assistance. Just got game the game today, but spent some time exploring some parameters, using Rattlesnake #1 as a laboratory.
At normal level, I could not quite do it no matter what I tried. At expert level(wind velocity can be higher,maybe club control is a little different too?), I had a wind velocity of 9 mph, from about 11 o'clock. Aimed just to the left of the trees, 8 iron with fade=5, backspin=5, loft=5 and landed directly on left side of green, rolled to the center back of the green and made my 4.5 yard putt for a bird on the hardest hole I have ever seen.
At normal level, I could not quite do it no matter what I tried. At expert level(wind velocity can be higher,maybe club control is a little different too?), I had a wind velocity of 9 mph, from about 11 o'clock. Aimed just to the left of the trees, 8 iron with fade=5, backspin=5, loft=5 and landed directly on left side of green, rolled to the center back of the green and made my 4.5 yard putt for a bird on the hardest hole I have ever seen.
Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Rattlesnake 1 has been discussed before, along with another hole on GL Classic. I'll modify them a little bit for 2.22 so you can reach the hole in one shot. Thanks for the suggestion
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Rocky Coast GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Here are some strategies I use on Rocky Coast, formerly known as Pebble Beach.
(s3 means 3 levels of backspin, a2 means 2 levels of draw, etc. Default means all conditions when you first step onto the tee. "0" means use the suggested club; "+1" means go up in length 1 club, etc. "+10" means you need a club that gives 10 more yards than the indicated distance. All of these settings assume no wind.)
I use the DR driver (330 yards)
1 driver d1, aim over L side of bushes; 2nd slightly strong wedge s3, aim R of pin
2 driver, don't adjust aim; 2nd 0, aim @ pin
3 driver a3 s2, aim R of blue; 2nd normal wedge play s3, aim just L of pin
4 driver q1, aim L of pin; for 1 mph tailwind use driver s1
5 4-iron, aim L of pin
6 3-wood, aim @ 1st bush on L (any tailwind add s); 2nd +10 yards
7 PW s2, don't adjust aim
8 driver, aim R of tree L of fairway; 2nd +10
9 driver, don't adjust aim; 2nd +20 s5
10 driver, aim @ blue; 2nd +15 s2
11 driver d1, aim R of lone bush in large gap to L; 2nd normal wedge, aim slightly L of pin
12 5-iron s1, aim slightly L of default
13 driver, aim R of 1st tree to L; 2nd normal wedge play, aim @ pin
14 driver d1, aim over R trap; 2nd 0, aim R of green; 3rd normal wedge play s1
15 driver, aim L of pin; 2nd normal wedge play s1, aim @ pin
16 driver d1 s3, aim @ twin trees L of green; 2nd normal wedge play s2
17 4 iron q1, don't adjust aim
18 driver, aim @ blue marker; 2nd club should = yardage, aim R of pin
If you find something that works better, please post.
Good Luck
(s3 means 3 levels of backspin, a2 means 2 levels of draw, etc. Default means all conditions when you first step onto the tee. "0" means use the suggested club; "+1" means go up in length 1 club, etc. "+10" means you need a club that gives 10 more yards than the indicated distance. All of these settings assume no wind.)
I use the DR driver (330 yards)
1 driver d1, aim over L side of bushes; 2nd slightly strong wedge s3, aim R of pin
2 driver, don't adjust aim; 2nd 0, aim @ pin
3 driver a3 s2, aim R of blue; 2nd normal wedge play s3, aim just L of pin
4 driver q1, aim L of pin; for 1 mph tailwind use driver s1
5 4-iron, aim L of pin
6 3-wood, aim @ 1st bush on L (any tailwind add s); 2nd +10 yards
7 PW s2, don't adjust aim
8 driver, aim R of tree L of fairway; 2nd +10
9 driver, don't adjust aim; 2nd +20 s5
10 driver, aim @ blue; 2nd +15 s2
11 driver d1, aim R of lone bush in large gap to L; 2nd normal wedge, aim slightly L of pin
12 5-iron s1, aim slightly L of default
13 driver, aim R of 1st tree to L; 2nd normal wedge play, aim @ pin
14 driver d1, aim over R trap; 2nd 0, aim R of green; 3rd normal wedge play s1
15 driver, aim L of pin; 2nd normal wedge play s1, aim @ pin
16 driver d1 s3, aim @ twin trees L of green; 2nd normal wedge play s2
17 4 iron q1, don't adjust aim
18 driver, aim @ blue marker; 2nd club should = yardage, aim R of pin
If you find something that works better, please post.
Good Luck
Last edited by pb2au on Mon Feb 28, 2011 4:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
--d@ve
Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Dave emailed me this a day ago and I tried it, and was able to improve my best tournament score down from -15 to -19 (that's with three pars that could have been birdies). I recommend it, once you get the hang of the shorthand it's easy to follow
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Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Dave emailed me this a day ago and I tried it, and was able to improve my best tournament score down from -15 to -19 (that's with three pars that could have been birdies). I recommend it, once you get the hang of the shorthand it's easy to follow
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Torre Pines South Tips
Sorry .... These tips are being reconstructed ....
Last edited by pb2au on Sun Jan 23, 2011 1:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Snowflake Ridge's Secret (6 & 15)
If you are confident that you can nail your shots, here is a tip you may want to try. The driver is 1W (300)
6 & 15 driver, aim for 1st opening in trees left of initial conditions (see picture), use one level of punch (e1)
6 & 15 driver, aim for 1st opening in trees left of initial conditions (see picture), use one level of punch (e1)
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- Gap looks bigger before turning L and, yes, it can be hit with driver or 3-wood (practice!)
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Last edited by pb2au on Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.
--d@ve
Re: GL Golf Tips/Strategies
Ah I do like that gap on #6, one of my favorite shortcuts
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Re:
Hi, Lee-Sapphie wrote:Golf Clubs - which club for which shot?
I am not a golf player, though do enjoy GL Golf and have a basic understanding of the game. I could do with a bit more knowledge of the effect of different clubs, though.
E.g. if I find myself in amongst the trees and want to hit a shot that gets the ball through them at quite a low angle (instead of lobbing it high up into the trees again), which club should I choose?
Could anyone give me a nice short summary of club function, numbers related to them etc?
Thanks
Lee
Well, in real golf the higher-numbered the iron, the more loft it has and the less the ball will run after it lands. Same holds true for GL golf here. To get out from under tree branches you need to do the same thing as in real golf: select a low-numbered iron like a 3 or even a 2 and punch it back onto the fairway--hopefully with some distance. Sometimes it helps to hood (de-loft) the club, too, although I would practice with that on the GL range before using it during a round. If you're under tree branches near the green, you need to do the same thing--it just becomes a more delicate shot because you have to judge more on how hard/soft to hit it. Again, practice on the range helps here. Since there aren't any trees you can play out from under on the range, just pretend you're under tree branches and practice punching onto a nearby green with a slightly-hooded 3 iron, for starters.
Last edited by Jack Clark on Sat Mar 20, 2010 6:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
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